Last month, I started the “Don’t Be Ordinary” series to explore the many excellent reasons to consider growing from seed. This time, let’s look at one of the most tempting, for many of us: the opportunity to grow truly uncommon plants that we can’t easily buy (or sometimes, even buy at all) as plants.
You’ve probably heard it said that there’s a good reason common plants are common: they are easy to find and easy to grow, thriving in a wide range of conditions with minimal care. Though uncommon plants are hard are find, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they are hard to grow, or that they are merely botanical curiosities with little garden value; it may just indicate that few gardeners have had the opportunity to give them a try. I’ve had good luck with all eight of these oddities in my Zone 6/7 Pennsylvania garden, most of them for several to many years, without providing any particular soil preparation or specialized care. And, it just so happens that I have seeds of all of these in my Hayefield shop, so if any of them strike your fancy, you have a chance to grow them for yourself. Some are also available from other sources, which you can investigate through an online search.
A Dainty Daisy
Pink hawksbeard (Crepis rubra) is a charming addition to the cool-season garden. Its layered, pink-petaled blooms appear mainly in late spring to early or midsummer atop stems that typically reach about 1 foot tall, over a low rosette of slender, green leaves.
![Pink hawksbeard (Crepis rubra) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/crepis_rubra_061619-3_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![Pink hawksbeard (Crepis rubra) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/crepis_rubra_061619-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C353&ssl=1)
This Mediterranean native is reportedly right at home in poor, dry soil, but it also performs well for me in well-prepared, evenly moist garden soil. It grows in full sun to light shade. Pink hawksbeard is usually grown as an annual, though it can apparently act as a perennial in certain conditions. I’ve had the occasional plant overwinter when it has self-sown into gravel.
I have also had luck starting pink hawksbeard indoors in early to mid-spring, under lights, sowing 3 to 5 seeds in a 4-inch pot of moist growing medium and then transplanting the seedlings in those groups as soon as danger of frost has passed, taking care to disturb the roots as little as possible. That approach worked well for me, as it gave the plants a head start and allowed them to make a nice show before summer heat arrived.
An Elegant Perennial
Seldom seen in gardens, but certainly garden-worthy, branched St Bernard’s lily (Anthericum ramosum) produces clumps of slender green leaves that send up sparsely branched, 24- to 30-inch-tall stems.
![Branched St Bernard's lily (Anthericum ramosum) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/anthericum_ramosum_080614-2_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C797&ssl=1)
![Branched St Bernard's lily (Anthericum ramosum) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/anthericum_ramosum_062116-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![Branched St Bernard's lily (Anthericum ramosum) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/anthericum_ramosum_070116-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
This pretty perennial is a quietly charming thing for a special spot where you can appreciate it at fairly close range, in full sun to light shade. It is generally hardy in Zones 5 to 8.
![Branched St Bernard's lily (Anthericum ramosum) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/anthericum_ramosum_111319-2_njo-1.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
The easiest approach to starting branched St Bernard’s lily is to sow the seeds in fall to late winter, setting them outdoors in a spot protected from mice so they can get a chilling period and then germinate when conditions are right in spring.
If you sow after February, set the pot in a plastic bag in your refrigerator for about a month before moving it to a cool, bright place for germination. (Remove the bag if the pot will be exposed to any direct sun.) The seeds generally sprout best in cool conditions (50 to 60F), so don’t give them supplemental heat.
A Fun Faux Nettle
Here’s something that’s pretty sure to stump garden visitors!
![False nettle (Boehmeria tricuspis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/boehmeria_tricuspis_042819-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
![False nettle (Boehmeria tricuspis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/boehmeria_tricuspis_081219-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
My plants have performed well in light, all-day shade (light filtered through an overhanging rose cane) and evenly moist soil. I’ve seen references give the hardiness zone range as 4 to 9, but I don’t know about that for sure; I do know that plants have survived a half-dozen winters unprotected in my Pennsylvania (Zone 6/7) garden.
An August-Blooming Bulb
Japanese jacinth (Barnardia japonica; also known as Barnardia scilloides and Scilla scilloides) belongs to that special group of bulbs that bloom in late summer, like surprise lilies (Lycoris squamigera).
![Japanese jacinth (Barnardia japonica) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/barnardia_japonica_080819-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Japanese jacinth (Barnardia japonica) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/barnardia_japonica_081619-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
![Japanese jacinth (Barnardia japonica) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/barnardia_japonica_082419-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C651&ssl=1)
Japanese jacinth performs well in full sun to light shade. Reportedly cold-hardy to at least Zones 6, it may tolerate colder areas but hasn’t been widely grown yet, so there isn’t much data on its performance in those areas.
![Japanese jacinth (Barnardia japonica) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/barnardia_japonica_110219-2_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
There isn’t a great deal of information about germinating Japanese jacinth, but I’ve had good results by sowing 1/4 inch deep in fall to early winter and setting the pot outside, in a spot protected from mice, to germinate when conditions were right in spring. I planted the whole pot of seedlings into a holding bed and left them there for a couple of years before moving them to the garden.
I’ve also had luck with germination in warm conditions. Seeds that I sowed on March 12, 2021, germinated starting on April 1. I leave it to you to decide which route you want to try.
Don’t Be Fooled
False hemp (Datisca cannabina), also known as bastard hemp, Cretan hemp, or acalbir, looks very much like a shrub in size and form, or like some exotic tender perennial in bloom, but it is a hardy garden perennial.
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_071311-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_080714-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C793&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_080714-1_njo-2.jpg?resize=530%2C793&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_071218-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_072715-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_072319-1_njo-2.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_071715-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_102215-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_081208-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_080619-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_080912-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C398&ssl=1)
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_121013-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C705&ssl=1)
False hemp thrives in full sun but takes light shade too. You can cut the stems close to the ground in late fall or early spring. They’re much tougher than those of most herbaceous perennials, though, so you’ll probably need loppers rather than handheld pruners. This superbly cool plant is reportedly hardy in Zones 4 to 8.
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_103019-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
The seeds of this substantial perennial are surprisingly tiny–practically dust-like, in fact–and germination is irregular, meaning that seedlings in one pot can appear over a period of months from a spring or summer sowing. Still, you probably don’t need many of them unless you have a gigantic garden, so you could separate the seedlings as soon as there are as many as you need and move them to individual pots or a holding bed to grow on.
![False hemp (Datisca cannabina) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/datisca_cannabina_111319-2_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
Surface-sow (do not cover) the tiny seeds as evenly as possible over growing medium, gently press them into the surface, and keep them moist in a warm, bright place for germination. If no seedlings appear after a month or so of warmth, you could wait longer or consider placing the pot in a plastic bag and refrigerating it for about a month before moving it back to warmth and light. I occasionally find seedlings of this plant in my garden, so it’s possible for them to self-sow in less than ideal conditions. But in general, I advise giving the tiny seeds close attention and good care so they don’t dry out or get washed away by careless watering or heavy rain.
A Lacy Look-Alike
Resembling a fancy Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) in leaf and a Russian sage (Perovskia) in bloom, cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo ‘Heterophylla’) is a deciduous shrub or small tree with a beauty all of its own.
![Cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo 'Heterophylla') [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/vitex_negundo_heterophylla_080816-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C353&ssl=1)
![Cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo 'Heterophylla') [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/vitex_negundo_heterophylla_070807-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo 'Heterophylla') [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/vitex_negundo_heterophylla_080914-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C798&ssl=1)
![Cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo 'Heterophylla') [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/vitex_negundo_heterophylla_041312-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo 'Heterophylla') [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/vitex_negundo_heterophylla_080911-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo 'Heterophylla') [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/vitex_negundo_heterophylla_102619-3_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
Cut-leaved chaste tree grows in full sun or light shade and is reportedly hardy in Zones 6 to 10.
![Cut-leaved chaste tree (Vitex negundo 'Heterophylla') [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/vitex_negundo_heterophylla_111219-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C608&ssl=1)
The easiest approach to growing cut-leaved chaste tree from seeds is to sow about 1/4″ deep in fall to early winter, setting them outdoors in a spot protected from mice so they can get a chilling period and then germinate when conditions are right in spring.
If you sow after December, set the pot in a plastic bag in your refrigerator for about 3 months before moving it to a warm, bright place for germination. (Remove the bag if the pot will be exposed to any direct sun.)
It is also possible that these seeds could germinate if you start them in warm, moist, bright conditions. But if you try that and no seedlings appear within 3 weeks or so, then try the refrigerator-chilling approach above before moving them back to warmth and light.
A Tough Little Tree
Growing trees from seed is admittedly a test of faith, as it can take them many years to mature and develop their best features. But if you have the patience, it’s a good way–sometimes the only way–to get your hands on something really special, like Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis).
![Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/maackia_amurensis_051214-2_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C352&ssl=1)
![Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/maackia_amurensis_111319-2_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/maackia_amurensis_041310-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/maackia_amurensis_090819-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/maackia_amurensis_111319-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
This very uncommon but easy to grow tree is reported to be very adaptable, tolerating a wide range of growing conditions in Zones 3 or 4 to 7 or 8.
![Amur maackia (Maackia amurensis) [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/maackia_amurensis_110319-2_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
One approach to starting Amur maackia is to sow the seeds about 1/4″ deep in fall or winter, setting them outdoors in a spot protected from mice so they can germinate when conditions are right.
It is also possible that these seeds could germinate if you start them in warm, moist conditions, particularly if you carefully nick the seedcoats, pour hot water over the seeds, and let them soak for about 24 hours before sowing.
For Something Completely Different
This deciduous shrub is so uncommon in gardens that it doesn’t really have an English common name, apart from “fountain hardhack,” which is used by a few references. It does have a variety of botanical names, though, including Flueggea suffruticosa, Securinega suffruticosa, and Securinega ramiflora, among others.
![Flueggea suffruticosa [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/flueggea_suffruticosa_090217-2_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C793&ssl=1)
![Flueggea suffruticosa [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/flueggea_suffruticosa_090915-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C795&ssl=1)
![Flueggea suffruticosa [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/flueggea_suffruticosa_090217-13_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C797&ssl=1)
![Flueggea suffruticosa [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/flueggea_suffruticosa_072318-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C530&ssl=1)
![Flueggea suffruticosa [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/flueggea_suffruticosa_110319-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Flueggea suffruticosa [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/flueggea_suffruticosa_091019-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C707&ssl=1)
![Flueggea suffruticosa [Nancy J. Ondra/Hayefield.com]](https://i0.wp.com/hayefield.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/flueggea_suffruticosa_102519-1_njo.jpg?resize=530%2C706&ssl=1)
If you enjoy growing rare and quirky plants, reading this article by Gary Koller may influence you in favor of Flueggea suffruticosa, as it did me: A Habit to Cultivate.
There is little information about the hardiness range of Flueggea suffruticosa in North America, but it has been fully hardy in my Zone 6/7, southeastern Pennsylvania garden.
The easiest approach to starting Flueggea suffruticosa is to sow the seeds (just barely covered with growing medium) in fall to late winter, setting their pot outdoors in a spot protected from mice so they can get a chilling period and then germinate when conditions are right in spring.
If you sow after February, set the pot in a plastic bag in your refrigerator for about 3 months before moving it to a warm, bright place for germination. (Remove the bag if the pot will be exposed to any direct sun.)
Some of the resulting plants will be male and some will be female, but you won’t be able to tell them apart until they reach flowering size (it took mine to the fourth year for all to flower). If you don’t care about getting seed, then it doesn’t matter whether you have males or females. If you want to be able to collect seed, I suggest growing out the seedlings in a holding area until you can tell them apart, then keep at least one male and one female. (When I moved my seedlings to my garden, I planted a male-female pair in the same hole to save space, and that has worked out well for me.)
Oh, there are so many more neat plants I could tell you about, but this is probably enough to get excited about for now. I plan to be back next month with another batch of botanical gems worth growing from seed. In the meantime, I’d better return to getting the rest of this year’s harvest cleaned and packed. Thanks so much for reading!
I love hearing about plants in general but un-common plants in particular. Thanks so much.
My pleasure, truly. I too get a thrill reading abut new plants to try!
-Nan
Nan,
Great to see a post from you in the inbox again! And what a good idea to dole out really enticing and comprehensive info on plants we’ll probably never see for sale, even at a good specialty nursery. I find myself growing certain favorite varieties of common plants from seeds too, just to make sure I have them every year. Other things I once had to grow myself, like heirloom tomatoes, have become much more common, which frees up growing space for trying something new. Looking forward to placing an order with you this year and trying a couple of things completely new to me!
Terrific to hear from you! I get what you’re saying about having to raise some common plants from seed at home. There is so much emphasis on the new releases each year that growers don’t have much incentive to stick with the old favorites. Even if you have a source where you can dependably find certain plants each year, there’s no guarantee that they will stay in business. We have lost so many independent growers over the last few decades. Most places around here just sell Proven Winners stuff (which are fine plants, certainly, but you don’t the thrill of finding something really unusual). Thank goodness seeds give us the ability to grow new goodies for ourselves!
-Nan
Nan,
Love all the cool plants you show us. Always something new to learn.
Thanks for checking in, Mel! Thanks too (if I haven’t already expressed my gratitude) for sharing the Aristolochia fimbriata seeds with me this year. I was so happy to grow it again, and I was able to get a nice seed harvest from the offspring.
-Nan
This is a fun blog entry, thanks!
It was easy for me to recognize your Boehmeria plant because I am growing the Smallspike False Nettle given to me as Boehmeria cylindrica. I love the shiny leaves and try to gather the seeds so as not to spread it all over my garden. I will collect seeds and send some to you.
You may want to communicate and exchange seeds with this fellow in Poland who grows several types of Boehmeria:
http://unusualediblesandtheirwildrelatives.blogspot.com/2018/04/false-nettles-ramie-cousins-boehmeria.html
I’ll head over to your seed store now. Thanks for sharing your garden.
Hi Mary! Yes, once you have grown one Boehmeria, it’s easy to recognize other species. I see yours is native; that’s cool. I’ll check out the post you recommended; thanks!
-Nan
Nan, lovely post. As an incorrigible plant nerd, I always love finding out about new things, although I have had my eye on Datisca cannabina for a few years.
Thanks, Nick
Hey there, Nick! If you’re considering giving the Datisca a try, you may want to acquire one soon. I’d say mine took at least 5 years to start looking really good. Now that they are well established, they keep getting better every year. The decision between male and female is a challenge, though, if you don’t have enough space for both. I can’t remember how long it took mine to produce their first flowers (and thus reveal their…um, orientation) from seed.
-Nan
Dear Nan, you are NOT so ordinary! Just loved this post.
Thanks, Rox
Nor are you, Rox! Without you, there would have been only seven un-ordinary gems in this post.
-Nan
Hi Nan! Thanks for the good read and inspiration. I am intrigued by the cut leaved chaste tree. I have a spot in my garden which needs something like that. I was thinking of a potato Glasnevin and keeping it under control as a shrub. This may be a better alternative. Anyway, it’s gorgeous and thanks again for sharing.
Barbara
Victoria, BC
Thank *you* for reading, Barbara. I’m thrilled that you found something that might work for you–if not the cut-leaved form, than maybe the straight species.
-Nan
I love that you pictured the seeds! There’s such a fascinating variety in them. I appreciate the seed images not just for ID purposes, but also for the way they make me marvel at how from *this* (a seed) you get *that* (a plant).
—Vicki
Thanks, Vicki! Once of my major projects this fall has been taking pictures of all the seeds I clean before I pack them. I’m so happy that you found them of interest. Of all, the Datisca are the most amazing to me–that those tiny things can produce such a substantial, shrub-sized perennial. Truly amazing!
-Nan
Thank you for sharing your gardens; I’ve been looking them over for inspiration. Love the Barnardia japonica and the Anthericum ramosum.
I appreciate your comment, Kat. It’s great that you found some of the plants of particular interest!
-Nan
ps I forgot to thank you for your rare seed offerings. I previously purchased some seeds from you and look forward to doing so again.
I truly appreciate that, Kat. Working with seeds is a big part of my gardening year, and each step is a joy for me, but it would all be pointless if not for people who were interested in trying them, like you!
-Nan
Yes! Growing plants from seeds is what I prefer. Seeds are good available in the Internet so we can grow whatever we want – from typical carrots to kiwano (which is a phenomenon in my country, it is very unusual fruit). What I like about plants grown from seeds is the fact that I kind of test myself. I always don’t know if I will manage to keep the plant so it is a bit challenging. Recently I bought some ornamental cucumber seeds from https://gardenseedmarket.com/ornamental-cucumber-mixed-seeds-cucumis-dipsaceus.html and I was a bit sad because they weren’t sprouting. It took them a few weeks to sprout but finally I could enjoy how they bloomed!
Hi Shay! Great to hear from another seed lover. You are right: raising plants from seed is such an interesting challenge to one’s skills. It’s particularly exciting to be able to then save seeds from those plants to complete the cycle!
-Nan
It is rare to see so many unfamiliar pictures in one article. I could not identify a single one here. The false nettle looks like big stinging nettle. I still could not identify it though.
Thank you so much, Tony; that means I met my goal. It’s such a thrill to meet new plants, isn’t it?
-Nan
I got some seeds from you a few years ago. My seed ability, or patience, is not like yours but I managed to get rattlesnake master, false quinine (I think it came from you) and some asters to grow. I put them through the winter seeding routine with jugs. Thank you very much and a good winter to you. They are all in my local park.
That is excellent news, Mary–thanks so much for sharing it! I wish you a good winter too. Just think: a month from now, the days will already be getting longer!
-Nan